Raf Simons S/S 2010 men

Let others ride the wave of futurism: Raf Simons continues his newfound fascination with classicism. “Fashion is so blurred these days. We need new men with new codes,” Simons said after his show, staged in blooming private gardens. The designer opened the show with five dark suits — and his tailoring prowess dominated throughout. Innovations included drop shoulders, roomier fits and reverse seams. “It’s about deconstruction and reconstruction,” said Simons, who added technical nylon sleeves and panels to some jackets. Simons broke the Wall Street procession with a harness-like orange belt that slashed through a two-button jacket as if to say: Brace yourself. Belts snaked around suits, sometimes diagonally, and lashed sleeves and even throats. Then in slithered snake prints on pants, shoes and sheer tops, along with oversize crests stitched on the back pockets of white jeans. Such symbols ­of conspicuous consumption seemed an ironic counterpoint to a sophisticated, confident collection. “Everything is a little bit disturbing,” Simons insisted backstage. And elegant, too.


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