ROBERTO CAVALLI PRE-FALL A/W 2010/2011

Photo by Giampaolo Sgura
Model Carmen Pedaru
Styled by Marie' Amelie Sauve'
Hair by Franco Gobbi
Makeup by Jessica Nesdza

On my a/w 2010/2011 wish list is a fur waistcoat....FAKE of course!
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Christian Dior Pre-Fall 2010 collection

A military tin helmet remade in leather, a scarf turban, and a beret: The headgear alone is enough to whisk the imagination into the zone of air raids, blackouts, and plucky WWII heroines playing their part while, quite possibly, having some off-duty fun with the GIs.

That Christian Dior had troubled to theme its pre-fall collection so coherently and with such attention to detail again reinforces the importance of this in-between season—no longer second-league clothes shown to buyers on racks but a full, competitive camera-ready production for general release. After all, this is where the daywear is for Dior, and this season it played as a military sequel to the film noir hit the house put out for Spring. The Eisenhower jackets and bombers, pencil skirts with military pockets, and fur-collared tweed coats, all in shades of khaki, olive, and brown, do an excellent job of saluting the trends while maintaining Parisian standards of fit and timelessness. And for evening, the silver lamé siren dress—spot-on for the coming season—looked far too accomplished to be classified as a mere understudy.























© by Christian Dior

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Miu Miu Pre-Fall 2010 collection

If you didn't already know that Miuccia Prada thinks of Miu Miu as an expression of her inner girl, you'd probably be able to guess it from the label's pre-fall collection. With its narrow-shouldered plaid jackets, tiny little matching skirts, and girly knee-high knit socks, it had a sincere feel for the nymphet dolly birds who populated long-forgotten pop flicks like Joanna and The Touchables back when Prada was in her teens. It wasn't only the abbreviated proportions of the tops and skirts—or their school uniform-y correctness—where the sixties made their presence felt. Pants were narrow-cut, flared, and cuffed—very Miss London. And the wool used is apparently, in Italy at least, irrevocably associated with that decade. But nothing is ever so literal in Pradaworld. To anyone who couldn't care less what girls wore Back Then, the re-proportioned duffel/parka hybrids were an adorable now-ish take on outerwear. Anyway, mixing time and place is a Prada specialty, and it was more forties glam than sixties pop that insinuated itself into the collection's use of fur (as tippetlike collars or as the sleeves on a jacket) or into the leopard-printed sheepskin jacket.

As an alternative to lace, there were handcrafted cable-knit dresses to match the mittens and knee socks that paired with everything (including the buckled stilettos). These summed up the girlish spirit of the collection, except when a shaggy fur tunic was thrown over one knit dress, mixing the pure and the pagan. The belted closings on that tunic had buckles that locked, the same hardware used to close the jackets on Miu Miu's correct little suits. Were they Prada's perverse, playful revisioning of a twenty-first-century chastity belt? In this Twilight era, the idea ain't so crazy.



















© by Miu Miu

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Philosophy by Alberta Ferretti Pre-Fall 2010

Alberta Ferretti infused her pre-fall lineup at Philosophy with more of the hard-soft references she explored in her main collection. For the line's younger, or at least more flirtatious, target customer, this translated to a chain-and-chiffon trim on a little silk skirt, peekaboo slashes across a body-con frock, and a cap-sleeve dress that appears demure until the skirt unzips to reveal a lace underlay. The mostly black palette was a far cry from the pops of color we've gotten used to this season, but credit the designer for pushing the boundaries of her brand.





















© by Philosophy by Alberta Ferretti

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