NOVELTIES #44

LEAVINGS

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They are in total four, three officials and one not yet, so it must be treated as a rumour. Everything started on February 1st  (Monday morning) with Kering-owned Italian menswear brand Brioni who released a statement saying that they and designer Brendan Mullane had reached “a joint decision” with not to renew their working collaboration. Few hours later another menswear brand comes out with a similar novelty. The Italian-established and Paris-based Berluti said that its chief designer, Alessandro Sartori, was leaving the LVMH-owned men’s luxury label. Last words of the official announcement weren’t yet said when those classic speculation-talks started to spread out. The strongest one was about Sartori turning to Berluti´s rival house Ermenegildo Zegna after weeks of talk that its designer, Stefano Pilati, would be leaving the Italian luxury fashion house after three years at the helm. At the end was a speculation that turned into reality. Zegna has initially declined anything mentioned, but after few days confirmed Pilati´s consensual departure, but also Sartori´s position as a new artistic director (listed among novelties below). Last but not least and so far the most shocking (possible) leave comes from Céline, saying that after nearly-eight years at the French lux-brand, Phoebe Philo is looking to leave the company. If rumours become reality that would be a huge hit for Céline, after all she turned this formerly overlooked brand into a fashion-highness, not only in terms of position, but also as a massive influence in the fashion industry.

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