Jil Sandar without Jil Sander, part two. After a F/W2014/2015 menswear collection, the design team at Jil Sander, still without own creative director, and with a styling help of Katy England, made the F/W 2014/2015 collection. Restating to the fundamental codes of the brand, they showed a quite, chic minimalism, composed by comfort, charcoal cashmere coats in cocooning shapes, boiled cashmere knits, square-cut jackets paired with matching trousers in, high-waist above the knee skirts paired with a tight turtle neck or a cocoon-like sweater and the omnipresent through the whole show sleeveless dress in quite palette of spearmint and blush with an asymmetric drape and wrapped at the waist. The repetition of the same dress in different colors and fabrics was for me the only “problem” in the collection, chilled by platform brogues in vivid yellow patent or pink neon lizard skin. Other, bigger problems may come in future collections, if there still will be no one to coordinate and upgrade the design level that we saw in this collection. Jil Sander is a brand that cannot afford even the idea to become a brand in the background or a second level one.

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/ Photos courtesy of Jil Sander /