F/W 2011/2012 // ANNE DE GRIJFF

For this collection Anne de Grijff got inspired by the 3-dimensional content of a pop-upbook and the folding furniture from the Bauhaus period. The story about turns and alternations made her shift in volume, compile layers and play with open and closed. The designer began with folding and cutting paper whereupon small objects were created from tightly constructive lines, refering to the graphic Bauhaus styles. The designer enlarged the small paperworks in pattern and fabric to apply the new forms directly on to the body and integrate them in garments. The spreading is translated in jackets and blouses with panels that you can change by pulling on smart (hidden) string constructions. Or in the pieces with pattern panels that you can flick over the body to connect them with belts and straps. You can set (enlarged) volumes in motion, but you can also let them hang. Herewith length and falling starts to narrate. These drapings get more heavy and dramatic in the shape of a long dress, skirt and jacket build up out of several volumes or layers that reach to the ground. The rich compositions can be drawn tight around the waist when the porter wants to give the model a touch of femininity. Pleats and folds continue to speak for the signature of Anne de Grijff. In the AW 2011-12 collection the context reforms because of the layering and draping, or by using the pull-system. The overview remains sober to let her inventive details and material sense speak fully. The collection contains heavy fabrics that are both concealing and warming. Wool remains essential in the cold season. The different thicknesses and textures (smooth or hairy) extend the tension in the compete image. Fine and transparent materials bring a sensual lightness, like delicate silk (scoured silk or in double cloth). Leather is widely used for details and finish, but also for the sleeves of a wool jacket, for a skirt and trousers. The colors of the collection are taken from the evenfall. Black varying degrees refer to the change of the sky from dusk till dawn. The tone of the evening is set with a warm wine red, while candlelight illuminates the collection with softer shades as off white, beige and camel.

No comments:

Post a Comment