Reed Krakoff RTW Fall 2010 / NYCFW Day-08

Reed Krakoff is not naïve enough to think that transporting the wild success he has achieved at Coach to the designer sportswear arena would be easy. The distinctive identity required, particularly in such a saturated market, is difficult to establish and, though his debut collection featured some good-looking clothes, Krakoff has a way to go. To his credit, he recognized that same-old, classic Americana would not do. And so he sought to distinguish his label with a luxe workwear motif, its influence obvious in the shearling jackets, cashmere Henleys and abundance of structured, utilitarian outerwear in shades of army green, navy and gray. There were interesting commercial pieces, particularly some robust coats, good knitwear and great lace-up boots, as well as some overtly editorial moments (price permitting, the ribbed sweater with bold mink sleeves might cross over to reality; the suspender-fur utility belt contraption, probably not). Yet while the quality looked solid, the execution was a little off. Cut from thick-looking leather, long skirts and wide pants turned clunky; various exaggerated utility details also read heavy. More significantly, often they felt like covers for the absence of a clear point of view. But, as Krakoff said a few days ago, “If it’s something you really feel passionate about, you find a way.” He’s laid the foundation, and now must clarify his vision.

© by WWD / Photos by Thomas Iannaccone

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