Proenza Schouler RTW Fall 2010 / NYCFW Day-08

After mining a sexy, dangerous look for spring with their animal prints and clingy skins, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez buttoned their woman back up, layering her with staple pieces like swingy coats, cashmere sweaters and bubble-skirted dresses, an easy lineup of clothes that bordered on collegiate. Bordered, because few co-eds have rubber printed cotton twill pants emblazoned with what appeared to be black and white inkblots (the collection was actually inspired by artist Christopher Wool, who has done graffitiesque paintings). These were cool, but the skirts that followed were better: primly pleated or folded, in navy and green, the minis were a nice contrast to the seemingly ubiquitous leggings. The designers, who collaborated with J Brand on several denim pieces, also picked up on the season’s fur theme, edging coats in colored alpaca, which played as daring if a bit trendy; the black and white angora jacquard dress, on the other hand, mixed the right dose of quirk and polish. If the poplin shirts and silk turtlenecks started to beat the same basic drum, the chic little faille dresses that closed the show hit a high note, with curved-under short skirts and twisted shoulders, in colors from lemon-yellow to deep green.

© by WWD / Photos by Giovanni Giannoni

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