J. Mendel RTW Fall 2010 / NYCFW Day-09

For an uptown sort of guy, Gilles Mendel hit upon an unlikely inspiration this time out: a series of earthy, mineral-focused photos by downtown photographer Ryan McGinley. “Now you’re going to see my urban moment,” Mendel said playfully the week before his quite lovely presentation. With black textured wool dresses, coats and many, many furs, this urban moment was spun with gentle polish: a kicky brown sequined dress had a sheer panel at the back and epaulets — a fall trend, to be sure — of black finn raccoon. That fur was used elsewhere, on a snug vest and even on what may be the world’s most luxe messenger bag, which laid claim to mink, too. Cut narrow and close to the body, the fur toppers, such as a patchwork fox wrap, had a lightness, which may make them more appealing to a younger client — no floor-dragging muskrat here. The rest of the collection was a gorgeous ode to eveningwear that looked as comfortable as it did fresh: Filmy in silk georgette, in dark blue and red, detailed with knife pleats and ruching, these were dresses you could spend all night dancing in.

© by WWD / Photos by George Chinsee

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