For a designer known for being perennially upbeat, Rowley veered into decidedly dark territory, setting her whimsical frocks and blouses in a moody palette of navy, gray and black, and sending forth puffed-up coats that evoked the silhouette of a young woman bracing herself against the elements. Rowley played up volume on chill-ready jackets in billowy fabric, and on dresses with bubble skirts and ties around the neck. Detailed gems included a quirky, peacock-festooned puffer and a sweet plum-hued blouse with see-through paneling. And save for a few lemon and pink lace numbers, cocktail dresses and skirts were piled with shimmering dark tassels and feathers. Haunting, quite, but the charm of Rowley’s past collections was noticeably missing.
© by WWD / Photos by Giovanni Giannoni
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