Chado Ralph Rucci RTW Fall 2010 / NYCFW Day-02

Ain’t life grand? It sure is for Ralph Rucci, whose show invitation requested guests wear evening attire. While few attendees heeded that suggestion, he did attract an imposing — and diverse — front row of fans: Martha Stewart, Patti Smith, Whoopi Goldberg and Fran Lebowitz all took in his often beautiful but uneven collection. Rucci has always displayed a love of opulence and exquisitely executed detailing, but in this collection, it was his most straightforward pieces — a lovely chiffon blouse and narrow gray cashmere skirt with not-too-high side slits; a terrific swingy taupe and black jersey shirtdress; even a spiraling black sable coat with horsehair inserts — that stood out as chic beauties.

In his show notes, Rucci said he was driven forward by varying “levels of seduction, ranging from blatant to subliminal.” By seduction, Rucci doesn’t mean sexy, but rather sophisticated, rendered via lace and chiffon paneling and sumptuous fabrics. Other materials offered texture, like sequins on a black mermaid gown or shirred taffeta on a smart wool dress. Sometimes a Rucci design trick can be fussy, but with his cream-colored chiffon dress, narrow at the waist and worked into knots at the skirt and shoulders, the impact was stunning. But there were often too many flourishes — burnt ostrich feathers mixed with mohair; torn wool crepe on a silk dress — all trying too hard to illustrate his artistic persuasions. Yet if some of Rucci’s risk-taking moments were overwrought, his creations were a refreshingly urbane and a polished reflection of what a very accomplished woman wants to wear.

© by WWD / Photos by John Aquino

No comments:

Post a Comment