In his show notes, Rucci said he was driven forward by varying “levels of seduction, ranging from blatant to subliminal.” By seduction, Rucci doesn’t mean sexy, but rather sophisticated, rendered via lace and chiffon paneling and sumptuous fabrics. Other materials offered texture, like sequins on a black mermaid gown or shirred taffeta on a smart wool dress. Sometimes a Rucci design trick can be fussy, but with his cream-colored chiffon dress, narrow at the waist and worked into knots at the skirt and shoulders, the impact was stunning. But there were often too many flourishes — burnt ostrich feathers mixed with mohair; torn wool crepe on a silk dress — all trying too hard to illustrate his artistic persuasions. Yet if some of Rucci’s risk-taking moments were overwrought, his creations were a refreshingly urbane and a polished reflection of what a very accomplished woman wants to wear.






















































© by WWD / Photos by John Aquino
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