Burberry Prorsum F/W 2010/2011 / LFW Day-05

Burberry’s chief creative officer, Christopher Bailey, showed exactly who’s in command of British fashion with a powerful, military-themed collection built around the aviator jacket, the trench and the frock coat — with softness coming in the form of curvy silk, lace and washed velvet silhouettes.

This was the second season that Burberry — which live streamed the show in 3-D at private events worldwide — showed in London, and the front row was stacked with the likes of Kate Hudson; Claire Danes; Mary-Kate Olsen; Mia Wasikowska, the star of “Alice in Wonderland”; Nina Porter, the face of an upcoming Burberry beauty campaign, and Carolina Herrera, who’s in town to open her first CH store on Mount Street.

Burberry’s commands came in the form of shearling aviator jackets in olive green wool felt or classic chocolate leather — some were cropped, others were turned inside out to reveal an expanse of creamy fur, and still others had oversize or double-zip collars and leather strap details. Even Burberry’s signature trench earned its wings, with aviator-jacket details worked onto the top half and a shearling lining.

And when Bailey finally touched down, he turned his attention to the ground troops, with sharply tailored, cropped great coats and frock coats; peplum riding jackets, and A-line coats with razor pleats at the back — and gold buttons galore. Sailors had their say, too, in the form of peacoats and navy blue coats with gold zippers at the waist.

The softer side of the collection came by way of glamorous coats and jackets made from a patchwork of different sheepskins. Although the theme was all “Master and Commander,” there was a certain Swinging London attitude: Models wore their military garb — and their thigh-high boots — with the sort of sexiness and nonchalance that would have had even peaceniks jumping for joy.

© by WWD / Photos by Giovanni Giannoni

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