With Viennese waltzes and techno beats blended on the soundtrack, the message from Marc Jacobs and men's studio director Paul Helbers was loud and clear: the Vuitton man knows how to mix classic style with modern substance.
Drawing inspiration from the dapper artists of Vienna’s Wiener Werkstätte movement from the turn of the century, Jacobs and Helbers worked techno fabrics into tailored shapes, such as a tweed-lined reversible nylon trench coat or a tailored jacket with leather paneling at the waist or shoulder.
A bonded calf leather peacoat, teamed with a mohair tuxedo with velvet piping, was cut to perfection. A palette of black, browns, clay and stone drew from Viennese architecture - forgetting the odd neon green puffer jacket. Almost every model lugged a Louis Vuitton accessory down the runway, including solid-looking steamer bags and oversized totes.
For this flawlessly executed and ultra-luxurious collection, Jacobs and Helbers seem to take the idealistic Wiener Werkstätte credo to heart: “Better to work 10 days on one product than to manufacture 10 products in one day."
© by WWD / Photos by Giovanni Giannoni
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