Standing out from the crowd is easier said than done, but it was no trouble for Lanvin creative director Alber Elbaz and men's wear designer Lucas Ossendrijver, who presented a collection united by a fervent independent streak and a decidedly tougher attitude. “Not for the fashion victim, but the fashion lover…Everything is taken from the street, but pushed forward," Elbaz summed up after the show.
Sleeves were lopped off suits and replaced with knitted or nylon arms as if only the lining remained. Seams on tailored jackets were unfinished, reinforcing the rich vagabond vibe.
At times, the show brought to mind the style of Elbaz himself - a loosely tailored velvet suit in particular. At others, a more aggressive personage emerged: Someone who slings a giant backpack over a tailcoat, or tucks his cotton leggings into military boots.
Fabrics, as ever with Lanvin, were rich and technical. Outerwear and knitwear cocooned the wearer and offered "a protective shield," according to Elbaz. Indeed, the Lanvin man is confident enough to show that he’s not invincible, but next season, he comes pretty close.
© by WWD / Photos by Giovanni Giannoni
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