Burberry Prorsum Men's Fall RTW 2010 / MFW-Day01

Chief creative officer Christopher Bailey sent out a parade of coats that not only saluted Burberry’s outerwear heritage, but also paid homage to military history for inspiring so many enduring coat styles: Trenches, pea coats, officer coats, bombers and more.

Bailey did variations on these classics, showing a range of proportions and fabrics while sticking close to traditional codes—except when he got a bit carried away with deep-pile teddy bear fur. Brass buttons and epaulet motifs extended from coats to sweaters.

The buttons turned glam when clustered on shoulders or cuffs. Denim and chambray shirts were as sharply pressed as a military dress uniform, marking a departure for Bailey, who had insisted on everything wrinkled for a few seasons.

The uniformity reached full expression in the lower body as trousers came in multiple dark fabrics but only a single clingy cut, and were invariably tucked into military boots. The show exuded gallantry and reverence, and benefited from Bailey’s admirable taste in New Wave music.

Though perhaps not as innovative or definitive as some other Prorsum collections, its broad appeal demonstrated why Bailey has been promoted to Burberry’s top brass.

© by WWD / Photos by Giovanni Giannoni

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