Text by Anna Battista
When in June a group of British designers were invited to showcase their Spring / Summer 2010 pre-collections at Florence’s Pitti_W Woman exhibition, Italian visitors had for the first time the chance to view the style and innovation that young and talented designers are bringing onto the fashion scene. In a way, that event was the beginning of a new Italian love story with British designers: in January Florence will experience again the power and exuberance of the Brits as Giles Deacon will present for the first time in the country his collection. The announcement was the final confirmation that this may as well be Deacon’s annus mirabilis. The winner of the 2009 ANDAM prize, awarded by France’s National Association for the Development of the Fashion Arts, Deacon was invited to showcase his S/S 2010 collection for the first time during the latest Paris Fashion Week. The designer’s ready-to-wear line is currently produced by Mantua-based Castor. Founded in 2003 by Angela Picozzi and her sister Elena, along with Francesca Agosta, Castor has a solid reputation in clothes-making and has also been the main force behind the success of the popular 6267 brand and, more recently, of Gabriele Colangelo. “Giles has got a wonderfully ironic approach to fashion,” Picozzi told Dazed Digital, “he wants women to be elegant, yet at the same time he spices up that elegance with playfully pop elements. His Spring / Summer 2010 collection perfectly incarnates his beliefs, since, though inspired by prehistory, it features fun dino-bags and fluorescent animal printed fabrics.” Picozzi announces there will be a few vital changes at Giles: the focus from now on will be on high quality, fabrics and, most importantly, a wider range of sizes (from six to 18). The new policy already allowed Giles to reach out to new international markets, strengthening his popularity in Italy and reaching out to virtually untouched markets such as Germany. “I do think that British designers are the most creative on the fashion scene and the country has such a great potential,” Picozzi highlighted, “Yet, British designers are often focused on style rather than technique or production and these aspects must be strengthened, though Deacon has been rising through the ranks and working hard also as chief designer at Fay.” While waiting for Giles’ Florentine debut, his fans are in for a very special Christmas present: Yoox will develop a Giles online shop launching at the beginning of December. “I was a bit sceptical about online shops,” Picozzi said, “but with such a beautiful collection as Giles’, I’m sure this will be a new and exciting experience.” The first customer who will buy online a garment from the capsule collection exclusively made for Yoox will win a trip to see Giles’ Pitti show. “Working in the fashion field is absolutely beautiful,” Picozzi concluded, “but I think it’s also interesting to meet the people who actually support particular designers and wear their creations.”
Pitti_W Woman Pre-collection, Florence, Italy, 12th-15th January 2010.
© by DazedDigital
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