Vionnet S/S 2010 / PFW / Day three

After a seemingly endless revolving door of designers and owners, the storied house of Vionnet just might be in the hands of someone with staying power. Rodolfo Paglialunga’s first full collection had a simple premise: square silk scarves, just like Mme. Vionnet used, draped into dresses. Rather than go grand, Paglialunga, who apprenticed with Miuccia Prada for more than a decade, made modern use of the house history on dresses cut at the knee, with some shorts, skirts and a single pair of blouson pants, which will be a harder sell than the rest. Scarves were tacked at the shoulder or around the waists of dresses that were alluring works of basic construction. And Paglialunga should be applauded for his way with colorblocking, a motif that easily veers retro yet felt quite sophisticated here.

© by WWD / Photos by Dominique Maitre

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