Rochas S/S 2010 / PFW / Day one

In his first runway outing for the French brand, revived last year by Italy’s Gibò, Marco Zanini sought to avoid the trap of classic Parisian fashion references. And so, fueled by the novels of Marguerite Duras, he imagined "a young woman going to a boarding school in Saigon." That romantic notion was clear in the spicy colors, floral prints and languid silhouettes that defined this collection. Jaunty Panama hats and rope-soled espadrilles heightened an appealing Thirties colonial mood. Versace-trained Zanini has a knack with pinch-waisted jackets and swishy slipdresses. Following the path of globe-trotting exotica suggested by this show could end up in a turf war with Dries Van Noten, master of that domain. But the good news is, Zanini seems to have plenty of ideas and enough technical skill to put Rochas somewhere on the map.

© by WWD / Photos by Giovanni Giannoni

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