Karl Lagerfeld S/S 2010 / PFW / Day five

Fashion’s most famous designer has cultivated a personal style as graphic and emphatic as an exclamation point: white hair, dark glasses, white shirt, black suit. In the collection he showed Sunday, Karl Lagerfeld used himself as a template and came up with a short and snappy lineup with a futuristic-by-way-of-the-Eighties sheen. Employing magnificent and robust couture fabrics — including duchesse satin and a 3-D cotton-nylon blend — he built jackets and dresses either by folding them into soft, intriguing loops, or by cutting them into sharp, geometric angles. Pleated and flaring high-waist shorts were the statement pieces and gave his show a kicky, leggy appeal. For the finale came a suite of terrific minidresses gleaming with curlicues of metallic leather and pearl embroideries.

Lagerfeld’s accessories story was foreshadowed on the show invitation: a spray-painted version of a Jean-Baptiste Mondino photo depicting Lagerfeld as a guitar hero. Electric guitars figured on the arms of sunglasses and on metal bangles. If the Hard Rock Hotel wants to up the ante on its staff uniforms, there’s only one rock-star designer to call.

© by WWD / Photos by Dominique Maitre

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