At the core of that accomplishment were clean, luxurious clothes. Classics with that proverbial twist, which, in this case, was more like a definitive line. Precision was key in tailored pieces, which looked X-Acto cut, such as bib-front shirts with a starched-paper quality, trenches, tailored skirts and wide-leg trousers with acute creases. Many looks featured leather molded into boxy Ts, tops cut under the bust and shift dresses. Some were matelassé; all had a streamlined, scuba quality.
Such severity done in a neutral palette of black, white, camel and flesh tones was plain, but never bland. Creamy jabot blouses worn with jet leather radiated chic, while a range of second-skin nudes — the last two looks, which came too close to Margiela, aside — had pared-down sex appeal.
© by WWD / Photos by Giovanni Giannoni
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