Missoni S/S 2010 / MFW / Day four

A tribal rave party at Missoni? You bet. Proving to be quite the show woman, Angela Missoni chose as her venue a tranquil 15th-century courtyard at the Università degli Studi di Milano, with choral music and warm breezes wafting through the Renaissance porticoes as her guests took their seats. Cue the bone-shuddering techno and a Missoni collection that took the house’s signature knits into new stomping grounds.

Their throats wound with silver chains and dangling whistles, their hair gelled up into angular Eighties quiffs, models stormed out in slim, past-the-knee tube dresses — each one layered up in an haute hippie way. Some were topped with cropped cardigans or sheer duster coats, their skinny sleeves lashed with silver armbands. Other dresses came wound with bandeau tops or draped with sarilike tunics, including one stunner embroidered with opalescent beads.

Missoni tamed her pileup of global references by keeping her micro-patterned ensembles mostly monochrome — starting with pale naturals and working up to more vivid pinks and teals. While the collection lacked variety in silhouette — it was long and lean until the sun sets at Ibiza — what came to the fore was the ultralight knitwear wizardry, including almost sheer jerseys and loose mesh-like weaves. “The collection has a lightness to it because we are living in a really heavy time,” the designer said backstage. Sounds like music to our ears — and looks great, too.

© by WWD / Photos by Giovanni Giannoni

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