Gucci S/S 2010 / MFW / Day three

Most mentions of the little black dress conjure images of Sabrina, pearls and an overall ladylike demeanor. On Saturday, Frida Giannini delivered an LBD-inspired collection of a different sort for Gucci, and not only because the first look out was in white. Her program notes called the lineup a “dynamic and coherent vision of modern femininity.” If true, Giannini sees the modern woman as shunning discretion and, for that matter, the slightest trace of decorum. She’s both aggressive and well-heeled, dual virtues she flaunts from every laced-up, trussed-up, perforated angle. To the first point, aggression, this woman’s steely bravado comes lacquered in a heavy coating of slick. For spring, Giannini served up plenty to lure her via a superskinny silhouette, whether ergonomically seamed dresses, jackets over high-waisted pants, boldly latticed “spring boots” and, yes, jersey gowns. But how to distinguish such racy fare? Giannini worked an almost maniacal extreme-sports preoccupation — multifabric collage constructions along with endless ties, cords, cutouts, harnesses and other assorted gadgetry — that wrestled toward S and M. A lot of stuff going on for gals who like a lot of attention — and there are plenty of them. Giannini’s ascent at Gucci has been marked by terrific numbers, and, during the recession, the company has fared better than most; its second-quarter sales rose 6 percent. Which brings up the aforementioned well-heeled aspect. Not all wealthy women who love clothes want to look refined; virtually all want to look as if they got what they paid for. While no one could accuse Giannini of shooting for elegance here, unlike with some past collections, she made certain the clothes looked labor-intensive and expensive.

© by WWD / Photos by Mauricio Miranda

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