C'N'C Costume National S/S 2010 / MFW / Day one

You’ve got to hand it to Ennio Capasa for opening his runway show to the public. Staged in the wide expanse of the Piazza del Duomo, it no doubt had the largest fashion audience of the season, which could have used a little crowd control. Capasa delivered one whopper of a spectacle, done in conjunction with the Municipality of Milan. The evening kicked off with a series of rousing performances, from The Kills to a hip-hop troupe to a curious druid-looking band (Ulik and Le Snob) with flaming cone shapes suspended over their heads.

As for the collection itself, the setting suited the sensibility to a T. Capasa was as aggressive as ever in his quest for tough-chic rocker threads, a point he underscored by recruiting his own model clique of rock progeny: Daisy Lowe, Pixie Geldof and Tali Lennox. Thus, for day, he churned out disco-punk tailoring — metallic brocade jackets and vests — and drapy, swaddled dresses and tops in painterly hues. He struck a utilitarian chord, as well, best seen in the trenches with studded details at the back. By night, however, Capasa turned things in a Goth-light direction, while making his case for the comeback of evening palazzo pants, served sparkly or in waterfall pleats.

© by WWD / Photos by Davide Maestri

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