Lanvin S/S 2010 men

Whether or not Albert Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver set out to unsettle their viewers, their spring show under the red lights of the Salle Wagram ballroom certainly challenged traditional notions of masculine conformity. “It’s about individualism and the antiuniform,” explained Ossendrijver, Lanvin men’s wear director. “We didn’t go to the studio. We went to the street,” chimed in Elbaz. While some elements appeared overtly feminine — platinum blonde wigs, high-waist pleated pants and stiff, silky fabrics — they were tempered with traditional gentleman signals: micro-check shirts, rep ties and even pocket squares. Jaunty visors and pencil moustaches added a retro twist. Looks ranged from an all-business slate blue suit to a don’t-mess-with-me sleeveless gray jacket with a black back panel. Silk shorts, tartan sportswear and cropped leather blousons completed the young, provocative mix. Fabrics included satins, tweeds and silks, proportions mixed (slim and elongated or ample and cropped) and colors predominantly dark (counter to this season’s soft and muted palette). The panoply of options successfully countered today’s uniform culture.

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